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Reflections on the Messy Complexity of Chronicity

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How I Spent My Spring Vacation

Evelyn Herwitz · June 3, 2025 · 6 Comments

I’m back home since last Tuesday night, back on East Coast time, and nearly caught up on sleep, after an intensive 12-day journey with Al to Germany. As is my way, I packed a lot into our itinerary, based in part on more research for Novel 2, which is set in Weimar Germany, and in part on things I’ve always wondered about and wanted to visit, and in part on catching up with good friends there.

We flew direct to Frankfurt-am-Main, Germany’s financial center, and used it as a hub for day trips by train to various points of interest, including Kassel, home of the Brothers Grimm for most of their adult lives; the Rhine River Valley, speckled by castles, hillside vineyards, and lovely towns; Worms (pronounced Vorms, rhymes with forms), which was a famed center of Jewish intellectual life in the Middle Ages and is home to the oldest Jewish cemetery in Europe; and Heidelberg, a renowned university city and site of castle ruins.

From Frankfurt, we took the 4-hour high speed train to Berlin, and had a guided tour of the Schöneberg district, where my mother grew up around the corner from Albert Einstein, and the location of JFK’s famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech in 1963; visited a variety of spectacular museums, where we saw art by Paul Klee and Gerhardt Richter; as well as learned about life in East Berlin and under the surveillance of the Stasi secret police. We also visited a wonderful puppet museum with an extraordinary collection and curators who filled me in on some history I’d been seeking.

On top of that, we had a lovely and meaningful visit with our friends, who treated us to delicious meals and took us to another beautiful and historic Jewish cemetery, the largest in Europe. Last Monday we took the train back to Frankfurt, stayed overnight, and then flew home. I was exhausted, but it was well worth it. And that’s the very short version of our travels.

What do all these things have in common? I’m thinking a lot about German folklore and how it informed culture and society in the 1930s, as well as the heritage of German Jewish communities. I’m also thinking a lot about art and censorship, which are central to my novel. And I’ve always wondered about castles on the Rhine. Fun fact: they were built by princes who wanted to collect tolls from ships traveling up and down the river—the very definition of robber barons.

I’m still processing all that we explored. I will be thinking about this trip for a long time. Grateful we could go and return home safely. Here are just a few pics of what we saw. Enjoy!

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

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Filed Under: Body, Hearing, Mind, Sight, Smell, Taste, Touch Tagged With: travel, vacation

Bucket List Visit

Evelyn Herwitz · October 15, 2024 · Leave a Comment

I have loved the art of Paul Klee for decades. His whimsy, brilliant use of color, and evocative abstract works are an endless source of fascination and inspiration. He is also a personal hero. During his last five years, Klee lived with scleroderma—and despite physical limitations, this was his most prolific creative period.

Born in Switzerland in 1879, raised in Bern, Klee studied art in Munich and eventually settled there in 1906. His imaginative works and art theory grew out of his involvement with Der Blaue Reiter group of German Expressionists, including Vasily Kandinsky, August Macke, and Franz Marc, as well as his travels to Italy and Tunisia, and his years during the Weimar Republic teaching at the Bauhaus and the Düsseldorf Academy. In 1933, the Nazis dismissed him from his post in Düsseldorf, and he was labeled a “degenerate” artist.

Klee and his wife, Lily, returned to Bern and lived there until he died at age 60 in 1940. I have long wondered if the trauma of exile, losing his close circle of fellow artists and his reputation, as well as the ability to exhibit his work, all contributed to his illness. His symptoms of systemic sclerosis emerged after a bout with the measles. I’ve asked my rheumatologist at Boston Medical about Klee, and while there is no clear answer to how he contracted scleroderma (same for all of us with the disease, even 90 years later), he explained the latest theories are that scleroderma is triggered by a virus. Another theory that I just discovered is that Klee’s exposure to certain chemicals in his oil paints and thinners may have been a contributing factor.

In any case, whenever I go to art museums, I seek out Klee’s works. So, this summer, after our very intense visit to Israel, we traveled to Switzerland for a few days in Bern to visit the Zentrum Paul Klee, the largest collection and archive of his art in the world—a visit at the top of my bucket list. I was hoping to see some of his famous paintings of abstract angels—playful, sorrowful, mysterious, comforting. Unfortunately, none were on display, nor any of his largest paintings. But the standing biographical exhibition did not disappoint, as I discovered some of his smaller works that I had only seen in books. And there were also three of Klee’s wonderful puppets that he made for his son, Felix. After we toured the museum, we walked around the Zentrum grounds, the sculpture garden, and paid our respects to Paul Klee’s grave.

Here are photos of a few of my favorite art works and the museum, as well as Bern from a scenic overlook at a different location. Hope you enjoy the view . . .

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

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Filed Under: Body, Mind, Sight Tagged With: body-mind balance, managing chronic disease, resilience, travel, vacation

Choose Humanity

Evelyn Herwitz · October 8, 2024 · Leave a Comment

I am writing on Monday afternoon, October 7, the dark one-year anniversary of the terror attack by Hamas in Israel that launched what now seems like a never-ending war. Twelve-hundred people, mostly Israelis, were slaughtered that day and hundreds taken hostage. There remain 101 hostages in captivity in Gaza, tens of thousands of innocents in Gaza killed as terrorists hide behind civilians, and now the growing risk of regional war in the Middle East.

In September, Al and I traveled to Israel to visit family and also to participate in a peace mission organized by MEJDI, a touring company founded 20 years ago by two friends, an Israeli and a Palestinian. They specialize in dual-narrative tours in conflict zones. Over five intense days, we met with people across the political spectrum to hear their stories, engage in dialogue, and explore paths to a just peace. I am still processing all that I learned and heard.

Among those we met were family members of Israeli hostages, a former Gaza resident, an Arab Israeli journalist for Ha’aretz, members of the Druze and Bedouin communities, a Palestinian Christian minister, a Palestinian bookstore owner in East Jerusalem, refugee advocates, IDF soldiers, and many dedicated peace activists. We visited guests in Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, near Haifa in the north and in the Negev in the south. We attended a massive rally in Tel Aviv to bring the hostages home and achieve a cease fire. We had long and meaningful conversations with our fellow tour members of all faiths, as well as our two guides—one, an Israeli whose cousin had been killed on October 7 and whose body is still held hostage in Gaza, and the other, a Palestinian from East Jerusalem who is a medic and was a first responder at the attacked kibbutzim.

There were many points of view, much grief and angst. But the message that resonated across all of our discussions was this: There are two peoples with legitimate claims to the same land, who must find a way to live in peace together. The journey is long and hard. Don’t pick sides. Choose humanity.

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

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Filed Under: Body, Hearing, Mind, Sight, Smell, Taste, Touch Tagged With: resilience, stress, travel, vacation

Birthday Jaunt

Evelyn Herwitz · May 7, 2024 · 2 Comments

Covid over (despite a scare last Monday when I developed a sore throat that, fortunately, resolved on its own), Al and I celebrated my birthday last Wednesday and Thursday with a quick trip to New Haven and New York City. My goal was to see a couple of art exhibits, one at Yale and the other at the Neue Galerie in Manhattan. The weather was sunny, the art stunning, the food excellent.

We stayed overnight in New Haven at a hotel that functions solely on electricity and is fossil-fuel-free, the Hotel Marcel, named for Marcel Breuer, a Bauhaus luminary who had originally designed the building as the corporate headquarters for Armstrong Rubber Co. Converted to a hotel with a commitment to sustainability and many curated Bauhaus details, it aims to be the first certified “passive house” hotel in the U.S. by the end of next year.

So, it was a fascinating trip, on many levels. Here are some of my favorite pieces from the Yale Art Gallery (no photos allowed at the Klimt landscape exhibit at the Neue Galerie). Photo above is one of my favorite NYC views, the constellation mural and lights on the ceiling of Grand Central Station. Enjoy!

Edvard Munch, Toward the Forest I, 1897
Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Schlemihl’s Encounter with His Shadow, 1915

Joan Miró, Jeune fille s’evadant (Girl Escaping), 1968
El Anatsui, Society Woman’s Cloth (Gold), 2006
Paul Klee, Heitere Gebirgslandschaft (Joyful Mountain Landscape), 1929
Wassily Kandinsky, Mit baumtem Kreis (Multicolored Circle), 1923
Josef Albers, Skyscrapers A, ca. 1929

 

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

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Filed Under: Body, Mind, Sight, Taste, Touch Tagged With: body-mind balance, mindfulness, resilience, travel, vacation

The View from Black Mountain

Evelyn Herwitz · October 17, 2023 · 4 Comments

Eighty years ago, my mother graduated from Black Mountain College in North Carolina. She was one of the few students in this small, experimental college to actually graduate, though the fact that the institution was never accredited caused some issues when she began to apply for work beyond the home in the 1970s.

No matter. BMC was a unique, character-shaping environment that left a deep impression on all who studied and worked at its bucolic campus, beneath the beauty of the Blue Ridge Mountains, near Asheville. The college, which existed from 1933 to 1957, placed the arts at the core of its curriculum, with a particular focus on how a specific material or medium—paint, clay, fiber, paper, wood, concrete, photography, dance, music, poetry, and more—defines and informs the act of creating. The place was a hive of interdisciplinary cross-fertilization and produced a generation of extraordinary talents, taught by some of the most influential artists and thinkers of the 21st century.

My Mom, however, was not an artist. She was a psychology major. But she also helped to build BMC’s Lake Eden campus, its second home, as part of the school’s work collective. Collaboration was key to the BMC ethos, perfected in the work program. So was democratic governance by students and faculty. Among Mom’s fondest recollections of her three years at Black Mountain was learning carpentry, pipe-fitting, masonry, and electrical wiring to help build the Studies Building and the college’s farm buildings.

I was immersed in this inspring environment over the past weekend at a conference about Black Mountain, which I shared with our younger daughter. It was a fascinating deep dive into scholarship about BMC, its students and faculty and staff, its unique educational philosophy. We met some truly wonderful people who welcomed us into their circle with open arms. It was also a needed respite from the chaos gripping the world, even as grim headlines tap-tap-tapped on my mind throughout our stay.

Somehow, despite all its many financial struggles, BMC managed to flourish through the Great Depression and World War II as an avant-garde island in the Jim Crow South. The McCarthy era of Red-baiting, as well as changes in GI education funding, eventually spelled its demise. But the cultural and intellectual contributions, as well as the mythology of Black Mountain, live on. I will be processing what I’ve learned for a long time. Already, though, I feel the gravitational pull toward a BMC way of thinking and doing. All good.

Here are some images of our visit to Asheville, the weaving exhibition at the heart of the conference, the former campus, and the stunning Blue Ridge Mountains. Enjoy, y’all.

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

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Filed Under: Body, Hearing, Mind, Sight, Touch Tagged With: mindfulness, resilience, travel

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About the Writer

When not writing about living fully with chronic health challenges, Evelyn Herwitz helps her marketing clients tell great stories about their good works. She would love to win a MacArthur grant and write fiction all day. Read More…

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I am not a doctor . . .

. . . and don’t play one on TV. While I strive for accuracy based on my 40-plus years of living with scleroderma, none of what I write should be taken as medical advice for your specific condition.

Scleroderma manifests uniquely in each individual. Please seek expert medical care. You’ll find websites with links to medical professionals in Resources.

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