Living with Scleroderma

Reflections on the Messy Complexity of Chronicity

travel

Ooh la la!

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At long last, after three years of Covid delays and a bout with Omicron in July, we finally traveled abroad on vacation. This time, we went to Canada, spending a meaningful weekend with family in Toronto and a lovely week in Québec City, which feels like going to Europe without flying across the ocean. I’ve been intrigued by the capital of Québec for years, and it was well worth the wait.

We stayed in the charming Old City and walked and walked up and down the hilly streets, using the funicular only a couple of times at the end of our visit because my feet were giving out. Over a week’s course, we learned a lot about the city’s military history and First Nations. Québec City was built on a high cliff as a fortress and played a major role in the Seven Years War between France and Britain for control of Canada. In a decisive battle in 1759 on the Plains of Abraham, the British won, a turning point that soon led to British control of the territory. This, after the French laid claim to lands that had belonged to First Nation peoples for thousands of years prior. Stories unique to place and time, but all too familiar.

The Old City’s architecture features stone buildings with dormers and metal roofs that are curved at the bottom so snow falls away from the foundation. Churches abound, though we learned that here, as elsewhere, the number of church goers in this predominantly Catholic province are declining. So some churches are being repurposed, including a tasteful renovation of a church into a public library.

We saw wonderful and moving art as well, including a powerful outdoor installation near the port by Ai Weiwei of hundreds of life jackets worn by Syrian refugees, which he collected from the Greek island of Lesbos. Talented street performers juggled and balanced on unicycles in the plaza next to the posh Chateau Frontenac, a landmark hotel. Beyond the Old City’s gates, we toured the Parliament building, which is modeled after the Louvre in Paris and home of Québec’s National Assembly, and the Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec, where we saw an exquisite special exhibit of carvings by Inuit artist Manasie Akpaliapik.

And we traveled up the St. Lawrence by bus to explore the Chute Montmorency, a thundering waterfall that is slightly higher than Niagara Falls, and from there by train to Baie-Saint-Paul, a pastoral town that is home to many artists. Other highlights included a guided tour of the Musée Huron-Wendat and a relaxing cruise on the St. Lawrence. A good thing we walked so much, even as I was exhausted by day’s end, because the food is excellent and the deserts magnifique.

Everywhere we went, we were surrounded by the lyrical sound of spoken French. While I was able to understand about 80 percent of what I read in museum texts, signs, and other materials, the spoken language is very fast and also a dialect, so we had to converse in English. Nonetheless, we were both grateful to our high school French teachers so long ago, that we were able to keep up as well as we did. And, yes, people really do say “ooh la la” instead of “oh wow!” Much sweeter to my ear.

So, here are some of my favorite images from the trip. Profitez-en bien!

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

Gotcha

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So, we were supposed to go on a 10-day vacation over the past week, at long last flying across borders to savor another culture. But Covid had other plans.

Three nights before we planned to leave, Al started coughing. Not your normal clear-the-throat cough, but a deeper, barking cough that woke me up a few times. Just to be on the safe side, the next morning I gave him a rapid test. The T line turned purple even before the C line emerged. Not good.

After I got over being upset (I was quite upset) I realized that we should just try to reschedule the trip. Which, by the end of the day, I had successfully done. I had purchased Covid travel insurance, and I am sending off a claim for the additional cost of the switched airline tickets this week. I don’t know if it will be honored, given that I didn’t actually cancel the flights, but it’s worth a shot.

Meanwhile, Al and I both had PCR tests. His came back positive the next day, and mine, negative. But by Friday, the day we were supposed to leave, I was starting to feel crummy. Two negative rapid tests were not much consolation. Sure enough, Saturday morning my rapid test was definitively positive.

This all happened despite our both being fully vaccinated and double boosted. As has been widely reported, the current dominant strain of Omicron, BA.5, is highly contagious and can evade some of the vaccines. We have no idea how Al picked it up. And even as we did our best to mask around each other and for Al to isolate, it didn’t matter. I still got it.

Fortunately, Paxlovid, the anti-viral medication for Covid that is provided at no charge by the federal government, is a game changer. It made a huge difference for both of us. There are reports of side-effects and also significant contraindications for certain medications. I had to stop two of my meds in order to take the five-day course. The only side effect that I was aware of was the bitter aftertaste it leaves in your mouth. But that is a very small price to pay for stopping Covid from replicating itself in my body.

Before Paxlovid, I was experiencing aches, chills, overactive Raynaud’s, a lot of congestion plus very runny nose, and a really sore throat (like severe strep, hard to swallow because it hurt so much). The day before I tested positive, I also experienced a sudden bout of vertigo, and until the Paxlovid took hold, migrating pins and needles, not unlike shingles. Oh, and my heart rate sped up and my arrhythmia kicked in. No fun.

Within 36 hours of starting the Paxlovid, all of this began to ease up. It felt miraculous. There is no doubt in my mind that if I hadn’t taken all the precautions of vaccines and boosters ahead of this, I would have been in much worse shape. And the Paxlovid really helped to turn things around. Risks of long Covid are real, especially when my immune system is already compromised from both scleroderma and Sjögren’s Syndrome. Even if I experience a Covid rebound (which can happen after stopping Paxlovid), I’m confident that another five days on Paxlovid is worth it, and quite manageable. So far, so good.

Happily, we are both on the mend. Fatigue is still a factor, but not as bad as previously. I tested negative with a rapid test eight days after my positive test. PCR results may remain positive for a while because they pick up fragments of the virus, even when you’re no longer really contagious.

In any case, I intend to wear my mask in public long after I need to (five days past the five-day isolation period) according to post-Covid protocol. Just to be careful. I do not want to get re-infected, especially in the weeks leading up to our rescheduled trip.

I hope you are well and free of all this. I am grateful for all the medical advances that enabled me and Al to get better relatively quickly and never get severely ill. Covid is not to be messed with. Stay safe.

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

Image: Gratisography

Airborne Again

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After 27 months of mostly staying put, I finally got on an airplane once again. And, just as I did in March 2020, right before Covid shut down the world, I flew to Philadelphia to see our younger daughter. We had been planning this visit for months, hoping that neither of us would contract the virus last minute and have to scuttle the trip. Thank goodness, we both tested negative on Thursday night, the evening before my Friday morning flight.

And so, I found myself back in the stressful world of air travel, with its crowds and TSA checks and worries about whether my flight would actually be on time or late or, at worst, cancelled due to lack of available aircraft or staff. Thank goodness, the weather held, the flight was on time, and I survived feeling squished in a cramped, worn-out seat. And yes, I wore a mask from the moment the shared van picked me up at home until I stepped out into the warm June morning and found my daughter, waiting for me in her car.

And we had a great visit. Photos below include some of the highlights: a walk through the Magic Garden of mosaics in South Philly, my first in-person view of the Liberty Bell, an abortion rights rally outside the National Constitution Center—one day after the Roe decision came down from SCOTUS—with Pennsylvania Attorney General Josh Shapiro (Democratic candidate in the crucial gubernatorial race this fall) and 1,500 citizens, a stroll down historic Elfreth’s Alley, and a brief but wonderful tour of Independence Hall and “the room where it happened”—debates over the Declaration of Independence, the Articles of Confederation, and what was to become the U.S. Constitution. Oh, and a lot of great meals.

Flying back on Sunday morning was a bit less smooth: my flight was delayed about 25 minutes because the co-pilot had to arrive from a separate flight, due to last minute staffing issues. Given all the SNAFUs that could have evolved from that one logistical issue, including a delayed arrival of the co-pilot leading to time-out issues for the rest of the crew (yes, this once happened to me), it was a relatively minor inconvenience. Overall, the trip was a home run.

How appropriate to visit Philadelphia at this critical inflection point in our nation’s history, how meaningful to be able to share it all with my younger daughter—and how great to feel like I can travel afar, relatively safely, once again.

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

Oasis of Calm

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Last week, I spent four days on Cape Cod by myself, just to focus on my own writing. It’s the second time in about a year that I’ve given myself this kind of mental and physical space to write. It was a wonderful, productive time, in a beautiful setting, surrounded by nature. I wrote and planned and walked nearby beaches of the Cape Cod National Seashore. Nothing like getting away from all the distractions and cacophony of bad news to reset my mind and soul, think about what really matters—and make my own art. Here’s a taste . . .

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.

Falling Back

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On Sunday we made the big shift, setting clocks back an hour to Eastern Standard Time and befuddling our brains in the process. Wait, the sun is nearing the horizon and it’s only four o’clock? Every year we go through this rigamarole, and every year I feel the darkness settle.

Sunlight in November is precious. I used to hate this month when we turn back the clocks, bringing nighttime all the more near. But in recent years I’ve come to appreciate it, despite too-early sunsets and crumbly brown leaves. The light is stark. It casts bare branches silver by day and coats them gold by late afternoon.

Nowhere is November light more beautiful than on Cape Cod, where Al and I spent the past weekend. We walked beaches at sunset, nature preserves at Noon, rediscovered a beloved bookstore frozen in time since the sixties, ate many good meals, and just enjoyed a much needed break. Here are some of my favorite photos from our trip. Enjoy!

Evelyn Herwitz blogs weekly about living fully with chronic disease, the inside of baseballs, turtles and frogs, J.S. Bach, the meaning of life and whatever else she happens to be thinking about at livingwithscleroderma.com. Please view Privacy Policy here.